Designers Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna begin a new chapter with Couture. For the FDCI India Couture Week 2021, the duo bring together the dresses immersed in gleaming crystals, tuxedos with sharp details and modern embroideries made through the heritage techniques.
Speaking about their foray into the couture, Rohit and Rahul suggested, “This is the first time we have worked on a couture collection. We specialize in textural surface ornamentation and our hand embroideries are all based on old Indian crafts. So, it was a very natural transition to infuse our hand-done techniques on couture ensembles. The modern Indian bride and the groom were looking for something unusual, which is global yet traditional. We believe our collection with its emphasis on sculpted silhouettes softened with sensual shimmer is apt for the modern bride and groom who are breaking conventions by trying unusual silhouettes for their big day.”
The inspiration this season is from the luminescent, whimsically irregular, and rigorously aspirational masterworks from their past. This added a chic verticality to the embroideries, whether on a halter-neck gown or on an ornate velvet tuxedo jacket. And there are a series of evening dresses, mostly in rich gem-tones (emerald, amethyst, garnet), but also in a champagne for which sculptural ruffles take the place of any other form of ornamentation. And cocktail dresses they were black with just a hint of beige, each look was beaded, bejewelled, feathered, and wrapped in a bow to varying degrees.
The key to the code was the cutwork. Layer after layer, of tiny delicate sheer fabric pieces were hand embroidered on the outfit to form a lattice that veiled yet revealed the female form below. Then there were actual overlays capes and layers of sheer tulle covered with the most delicate organza frays. Everything shook or shimmied. For Men the controlled use of tassels and fringes added movement and layers. The sparing use of gem-coloured crystals and metallic thread embroidery added luxury to modern tailored silhouettes.
The collection is a profusion of opulence with embellish rich fabrics like velvet, duchesse satin, and chiffon in a harmonious palette of wine, grey, sapphire, and with mostly tonal arabesques or floral embroideries.
What is so brilliant to see in these pieces is the evolution of craft for they have mastered to execute impeccable fit with careful construction skills. It is a combination of technique and fit, but also in an attitude that reflected the designer’s long time desire to modernize couture.
Checkout their collections at : https://www.rohitandrahul.com/
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The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) in association with Hindustan Times has scheduled the second, digital edition of the India Couture Week 2021 from August 23-29, 2021. The 14th edition of the event is witnessing interesting themes by the country’s 19 couturiers – Amit Aggarwal, Amit GT, Anamika Khanna, Anju Modi, Ashima Leena, Dolly J, Falguni Shane Peacock, Gaurav Gupta, Kunal Rawal, Manish Malhotra, Pankaj & Nidhi, Rahul Mishra, Reynu Taandon, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Shantanu & Nikhil, Siddartha Tytler, Suneet Varma, Tarun Tahiliani and Varun Bahl. The couturiers fashion films will be streamed on all the FDCI’s digital platforms —- Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and FDCI website.
FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi says, “We have some of the finest names this year and they have come up with the most out-of-the-box narratives to create a visual treat for the audience. I wish them the best for this exciting journey ahead.”
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Pictures: FDCI, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna
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